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Rebuilding a Traditional Eastern Garment with Western Functionality
TNG-001 Thread Trials Exhibition

Thread Trials is a recounting of design process and design thinking that goes into products. We'll review the process to refine it later on. Finding the qualities that we are interested in and what qualities our process is. Traditional gis, and samue, were made with only one type of fabric and were secured around the body by wrapping, folding, and tying. Despite the ingenuity of these techniques, the traditional eastern garments paled in comparison to the western garments in terms of functionality and security. Because they were not secured by buttons, or zippers, they lacked security and are not as ideal for the modern wearer.

Exhibition Theme

For CCSF SS17 exhibition, T submitted a Collared Samue, and Shibari Drawstring Pants. T appreciates how eastern garments afford maximum mobility, and have functionality built in seamlessly into the design. The end goal of this exhibition combined the mobility of eastern garments with the technical functionality of 20th century western garments adapted for the modern wearer.

Collared Samue

T constructed the piece with a black textured, medium-weight linen fabric. Some key features of the piece are the lapel-like collar and the invisible zip compartment on the lower left in the front. To give textural contrast, this compartment was constructed out of black wool gabardine (which was used to make the pants).

Shibari Drawstring Pants

The bottom structure was based off of a hakama. To have the looseness that the traditional design provided with Waist actually has no elastic so the drawstrings are the only things that will keep the pants up; however this means that the wearer has complete control over how loose/tight the waist to be. I tend to leave the waist a little loose so there is a little more drape and roominess in the crotch and thigh area.

the additional fasteners to allow for the wearer to designate the method that the pants draped in order to appeal to a more fit silhouette that is pervasive in modern garments. Metal hardware buckle secures the straps around the area right below the knee. Straps can be adjusted according to wearers preferences.

Finished Look

The end look. Creating a consistent theme using traditional Japanese garments. Following their techniques of wrapping, folding, and tying to secure pieces of fabric together rather than using fasteners and zippers. New features were added to make the silhouette more modern, such as the collar, and additional fasteners were added in order to adjust the silhouette and add more functionality to the piece.

Collection: TNG-001 SS17

Design: Tomoya Saisu

Photography: Edison Tong